The RWS Diana Model 54 is a unique springer. It is designed with rails. The theory being to eliminate the effects of recoil. Well I can tell you it doesn't totally eliminate the grip sensitivity of springers but it does reduce it. The rails are steel pins. There is one on the front and 2 on the rear. A brass block rides on these rails. Under the brass blocks are ball bearings, I believe spring loaded. The receiver is then fitted to the stock with metal and rubber washers. I noticed a propensity for fliers. I disassembled the stock, cleaned the oil off of the rails, and lubed them with a tiny amount of graphite. The result was a great reduction in fliers. Not wanting the black dust that comes with graphite lube I cleaned them all off and tried using ACE hardware pure silicon lubricant. Both worked equally well but the action wasn't as smooth. Finally I ended up using Hoppes Moly paste and the action is perfectly smooth now. Any fliers I get now are either a result of my hold technique, the pellet or some other factor.
The 54 is an odd combination of materials. For the most part it is a good looking gun. But the plastic pieces on it definitely detract from the appearance. Some have said even their Glock has plastic on it so get used to it. Well I can't, nor do I own a Glock. I have passed up Kimbers because of the plastic. And fine German engineered plastic just doesn't have the same ring to it. So I decided to remove the plastic front sight and replace it with a Beeman universal muzzle brake. By taking off the plastic front sight, the barrel beauty tube can be removed. Inside the tube is a perfectly fitted split cylinder shim. Simply slide the shim out of the tube until it is flush with the end of the barrel and fit the brake. That leaves a gap from the end of the barrel to the inside of the end of the brake end piece but it functions fine. Be careful of the torque applied to the Beeman universal muzzle brake allen set screws. I found 24 inch pounds was sufficient to strip one of the two screws. I ordered 5mm x 4mm set screws from McMaster Carr to correct this. However, 4mm is too long. They really need to be 5mm x 3mm. They can be ground down on a wet wheel. Although it appeared I had stripped threads in the brake, just inserting the new set screw worked perfectly.
The scope I selected was a Centerpoint but they were out of them so they offered the Nikko Stirling instead. The wheel for the AO is hideous. It is also too heavy and visibly wobbles the AO knob. I feel if the wheel were left on, it would result in AO knob failure. The scope is a 60mm 8x32. I wanted a 56mm 8x32. Air Guns of Arizona fitted it to the model 54 with a BKL #360 30mm 4" long single piece scope mount. The rifle came with the scope and mount attached and already zeroed in. But I had to set the eye relief by moving the scope all the way forward. The BKL mount used 9/64 allen head screws, 8x32. But I had found that the original screws on the rings and the dovetail clamp had been tightened too much. The rings were tightened so much it dented the scope tube. The rail screw threads had been stripped on 2 of the 6 screws and had to be removed. The rest had pulled threads. BKL recommends 35 inch pounds for torque on the base screws. I repaired the screws by drilling and using longer screws and hex nuts.
The Crosman Premier 14.7 domed DIE #1 pellets are noticeably inconsistent. I find several pellets will fit snugly in the breach while others almost fall out. All from he same box. This doesn't bode well for the quality of the CPs. In fact I would say the CPs have bad quality. The ones that fit loosely I can count on mostly being a flier. But I never really know what they are going to do. The Air Arms pellets made by JSB are very consistent.
I also had to do some trigger moding. Yes the trigger and guard is plastic and no I don't like it. I hope to find or make a metal replacement some day, that will be the best trigger mod. Out of the box the trigger took a lot of force. I didn't measure it but found the culprit to be a spring that is entirely too stiff. I replaced the spring with a softer one, actually from a ballpoint pen and now the trigger takes a lot less force yet is crisp. The one adjustment screw is for travel only, not pull strength.
All in all I like the Model 54 but the plastic is a real detractor. The stock is stained beech which is typical for air rifles and not extraordinary but well done. I hope to replace the trigger but I doubt the plastic safety and front and rear receiver pieces can be found in metal.
1 Aug 2008
Something is moving on the gun overnight or over a few nights. I suspect the scope mount. Perhaps in combination with cold (air conditioned inside) to hot (outside) transitions. I have now installed BKL #302 30mm 2 piece reach forward mounts. Accuracy is still there now lets see if it holds it. Tomorrow will tell. I also installed a BKL bubble level and a few stick on plastic bumpers to keep the lever away from the receiver shroud. The shroud is fixed to the stock while the lever is attached to the receiver so the lever rubs on the shroud as the receiver moves on the rails when it fires.
3 Aug 2008
It appears to have held zero, the mount was the problem. I'll keep an eye on this in the future. I have drilled and tapped the 360 to use 5mm screws and will keep as a back-up.
